Baking a Fantastic Apple Pudding From 1832. Have You Ever Tried Applesauce Pie?
Warm apples, nutmeg and cinnamon. What more of a perfect combination could one have for a chilly fall day? This recipe is certainly a keeper and it could be a unique new tradition in your family. If I could describe the flavor and texture it is what I'd call a spiced applesauce pie!
Due to the filling's consistency it is labeled as a pudding in the 1832 publication Seventy Five Receipts for Pastry Cakes & Sweetmeats. Published in Philadelphia by a lady simply known as Miss Leslie, this cookbook was marketed towards those of the common classes especially those who lived in rural areas who were unable to buy ready-made pastries. The book is remarkably easy to follow.
For the crust I decided to use my go-to recipe which I have seen repeated multiple times in cookbooks ranging from the 18th century to the 19th. I also spotted this exact recipe for today's crust in another 1830s cookbook. It is a basic and affordable formulation of butter, flour and water.
We may start by stewing our apples. Take 4-5 large apples then peel the skins and cut from the cores. Put into a pot and cover with water till the apples are 80% covered. You do not need to fully submerge the apples in water. Miss Leslie's instructions for stewing the apples are quite vague spice wise as it is certainly a good idea to spice your apples as they cook. You may add whatever you wish however I went with a classic mixture of a teaspoon of cinnamon and a teaspoon of sugar. Stir your spices into your apple and water mixture then let simmer until your apples are very soft. We want the apples to be soft enough so that we may easily mash them using only a spoon. This will take at least 30 minutes.
While your apples simmer let us begin working on the crust. Take 1/4 of a pound of cold butter and mix it into 1.5 cups of all-purpose flour. Add cold water a spoonful at a time until all of this mixture is incorporated. Be sure not to add too much water or the dough will be sticky. Spread more flour onto your work surface and using a rolling pin flatten your dough until it may evenly cover your baking pan.
Remember to be sure that your dough is not sticky. This is why we will only add one spoonful of cold water at a time to ensure that we do not overdue it. If you do, however, add more flour till dry.
Now that your dough is rolled out spread it over your desired baking pan. I recommend crimping the edges using the end of a butter knife. This little trick I picked up from a recommendation in the same cookbook that we are using for this apple pudding. Poke holes in the bottom of the crust to allow ventilation.
Once your crust is to your liking bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. This will prevent the crust from becoming soggy once we add the apple filling. The crust should remain off-white and should not be browned. Once done remove from your heat and set aside.
Check to see if your stewed apples are soft enough to easily mush with a spoon. If so all of the water should be absorbed by now. If any remains drain off the rest in a colander.
Mush your stewed apples with the back of a spoon
Now to improve this we shall add a teaspoon of ground nutmeg, a dash of rose water, 1/4 of a cup of powdered sugar and the rind from one lemon. Mix well.
In a separate bowl cream together another 1/4 cup of powdered sugar with 2 oz of softened unsalted butter. You may achieve this by kneading and rubbing the butter in with the sugar similarly to dealing with bread dough. Once incorporated add this mixture to your stewed apples. It is ok if you notice chunks of butter throughout. This will melt once we bake it.
Spread your mixture evenly into your pie shell. We are now ready to bake it!
Place it inside of a moderate 350 degree oven and bake for 40 minutes. Once done the apples should have slightly browned however do not let the crust brown. If this happens it is overcooked.
Once done allow to sit for at least 10 minutes before cutting into it. The filling has the consistency of a dense applesauce and the flavor of a floral applesauce as well due to the rose water and lemon rind. This dish will please both adults and children alike.
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All-purpose flour: 1.5 cups plus a little extra for dusting your work surface
Unsalted butter: 1/4 of a pound, cold
Cold Water: roughly a quarter of a cup
For The Filling:
Apples: 4-5, large
Cinnamon: one teaspoon, ground
Granulated sugar or raw sugar: one teaspoon
Unsalted butter: 2 oz, softened
Powdered sugar: 1/2 of a cup
Nutmeg: one teaspoon, ground
Lemon rind: the rind of one lemon
Rose water: 3 tablespoons
Directions:
For The Crust:
Cube and mix your cold butter with your flour until the butter forms pearl-like balls throughout the dough. Add cold water slowly, one spoon at a time, until the butter and flour have formed a dough. Be sure not to add too much water as we don't want this dough to be sticky. If you accidently add too much water add a spoonful of flour and if your dough is too dry add another spoonful of water. Lightly flour your worksurface and roll out the dough using a rolling pin. Once it is to your desired size spread out onto a pie pan and crimp the edges (I recommend doing so using the end of a butter knife). Poke holes throughout the bottom of the crust to allow ventilation when cooking. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes. The crust should remain off-white once done, but should be firmer to the touch than when raw. Set aside.
For The Filling:
Remove the skin from 4-5 large apples and cut into wedges. Place your apples inside of a pot and cover with water until 80% covered. You do not need to fully submerge the apples. Into this mix in your cinnamon and granulated sugar. Place this on medium heat on your stovetop and cook until your apples are soft enough to mush with the back of a spoon. This could take at least half an hour. Once done test with a spoon. Remove from your heat and drain any extra water if there is any. Place into a dish and stir in a lemon's rind, rosewater, nutmeg and 1/4 cup of powdered sugar. In another, smaller bowl cream together your butter and remaining 1/4 cup of powdered sugar. You may use your hands to do this by massaging the two together until incorporated. Once done mix your butter into the apples. It is ok to have small chunks of butter throughout your mixture as this will melt while cooking. Pour into your crust covered pie pan and bake in a 350 degree oven for 40 minutes. Once done your crust should only be slightly darker yet should still maintain an off-white color. If your crust has browned it is overdone. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before cutting and serving.
At this rate I'll look like I'm ready for winter. I can't stop eating your delicious food!
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